Fermented Liquorice Root Extract

INCI: Aqua, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Liquorice) Root Extract, Sucrose, Lactobacillus Ferment, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate

INCICELLAR EXCLUSIVE:

Our fermented liquorice root extract is a water-based botanical active created from Glycyrrhiza glabra (liquorice) root using a controlled fermentation process. This ingredient combines a well-established cosmetic botanical with fermentation technology, making it a versatile addition to contemporary skincare formulations.

Liquorice root is widely used in cosmetics and is known for its naturally occurring compounds, including flavonoids and glycyrrhizin. It is commonly found in formulations focused on brightening the appearance of the skin, supporting a more even-looking complexion, and contributing to overall skin conditioning. It is also frequently included in products designed for sensitive or delicate skin types due to its gentle profile.

Through fermentation with Lactobacillus, this extract is transformed into a postbiotic-type ingredient. Postbiotics refer to the by-products of fermentation rather than live microorganisms, meaning this material contains the components created during the fermentation process rather than active bacteria. This aligns with modern formulation approaches that focus on microbiome-conscious and fermented ingredients.

This fermented liquorice extract is easy to incorporate into a wide range of formulations, including serums, toners, essences, and emulsions. It pairs well with other botanical extracts and water-based actives, making it a flexible ingredient for formulators looking to develop skincare products with a strong botanical and fermentation story.

Key Liquorice Compounds

Research into Glycyrrhiza glabra (liquorice) has identified several naturally occurring compounds associated with skin appearance benefits:

• Glabridin – The most well-known compound in liquorice. It is widely studied for its role in helping reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone by influencing melanin production pathways.
• Liquiritin – Associated with improving the look of overall skin tone and supporting a brighter, more even-looking complexion in cosmetic formulations.
• Glycyrrhizin – Primarily recognised for its soothing and skin-conditioning properties rather than brightening effects. It helps support the gentle, skin-comforting profile of liquorice extract. 

Standardised Extraction vs Fermentation (and why fermentation costs more)

A standardised liquorice extract is produced using water or solvent extraction, followed by standardisation to ensure a consistent level of key naturally occurring plant compounds. This method captures the native constituents of Glycyrrhiza glabra root in a stable, reproducible form suitable for cosmetic formulation.

A fermented liquorice extract is produced by first extracting the plant material, followed by a controlled fermentation step using Lactobacillus. This biotransformation process modifies part of the extract, resulting in a combination of original plant compounds and fermentation-derived components (postbiotics).

What fermentation adds to the extract

Fermentation does not replace the original botanical profile, but may result in:

• Partial breakdown of larger plant molecules into smaller, transformed derivatives
• Formation of postbiotic components (fermentation by-products such as organic acids, peptides, and amino acid derivatives)
• A broader and more complex composition profile compared to non-fermented extracts
• A different overall biochemical “state” of the extract due to microbial processing

Why fermentation typically costs more

Fermentation is more resource-intensive than standard extraction and standardisation. It requires:

• Extended processing time under controlled conditions
• Microbial culture management to ensure controlled and consistent fermentation
• Additional monitoring and stabilisation steps post-fermentation
• Lower overall yield, as not all starting material is converted in a uniform way
• Increased quality control and testing requirements to ensure batch consistency

Cost reflection

The higher cost reflects the additional biotransformation step and processing complexity. This results in an ingredient with a different overall composition profile compared to a standardised extract.

Cruelty Free, Non-GMO, Vegan, Palm Oil Free, Manufactured in the UK

Plant origin: Turkey

Manufactured in : Yorkshire

Usage: Recommended usage: 1–10%, Use in cool down phase.

Solubility: Water

PH:4.2-5.0

Appearance: Light Brown

Application Uses: sensitive, irritated, dull or uneven skin tone, or blemish-prone skin 

All products sold are cosmetic grade; External Use Only; Cosmetic & Personal Care Formulations Only.

Please email us if you require over 1KG

Technical Documents please email kezzia@incicellar.co.uk